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layering

A Guide to Layering

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Layering is one of those trends that come in and out of fashion from time to time, but which can also serve a very practical purpose too.  Whatever the season, layering clothes can help you go from indoor to outdoor or day to night with ease, and without having to plan a different wardrobe for every eventuality.  It also adds interest to your clothes and multiplies the number of potential outfits you have in your wardrobe.  To layer well (and not look like the Michelin man) just takes a little thought.  Here are my tips.

Start with your base layer

Think of your first layer like your canvas: it should provide a comfortable, smooth foundation for the rest of your outfit to build on.  In summer, you might choose a breathable camisole and, in winter, a lightweight long-sleeved t-shirt.  Your base layer should fit you well.  It is probably worth choosing a neutral colour for your base; whether you intend it to ever been seen or not, you don’t want it accidentally dominating the rest of your outfit.

Colour x Pattern x Texture: pick one to play with

If all your following layers were different colours, patterns and textures, it may look like you got dressed in the dark – unless you are deliberately making a statement of course!  To bring your layers together and make them look like one outfit, it’s usually better to not vary all of these too much.

For example, if your layers are dramatically different textures (which they might well be if you’re putting a chunky knit over a silky blouse) try to choose from the same colour palette or colour tones/depths.  Equally, if you want to be brave and mix different patterns in your outfit, it will look more polished if those garments share similar colours and didn’t vary too much in texture.  Consider the overall balance of your outfit.

Think about proportions

Think about proportions in two aspects.  Firstly, you probably want to wear bigger, chunkier garments on top rather than as your base layers.  Just practically, in terms of the size of your clothes, a tighter-fitting top that you’ve squeezed on over a chunky jumper just isn’t going to look right.  Many of us tend to buy jumpers or cardigans in sizes larger than tops or blouses for exactly the reason that we expect to wear something underneath them.

Secondly, you can choose to play with proportions but still retain a figure-flattering look.  For example, a fitted top paired with an oversize blazer will look comfortable and casual; an oversized top with an oversize blazer could make you look bigger than you are and is likely just to look like a poor fit.  Use proportions – and different lengths – to help balance your outfit.

Use accessories to good effect

Again, accessorising comes down to balance.  If you have a very busy outfit, with lots of texture or pattern, you probably don’t also want to pile on overly large or colourful scarves, handbags or jewellery as well (unless that’s your “clothing personality”).  However, if you have gone for a more pared-down look (think ‘Stealth Wealth’ quiet luxury in creams and tans, perhaps) you can probably afford to go with a quality, statement piece alongside it.

It helps if you have a full-length mirror to hand so you can assess your whole look before you leave the house. And, play or practice when you have time, and snap a photo to remind you of these looks for when you’re getting dressed in a hurry. Keep a folder of your clothing ideas somewhere handy – a specific folder in your phone, or printed out and near the wardrobe.

Build your layering wardrobe with versatile classics

Building a wardrobe that layers well is a bit like building a successful capsule wardrobe; you’ll want to buy classic items that will last and will go with many other garments in your wardrobe too.  Look for lightweight cotton cardigans in a range of plain or neutral colours, for example, to provide a year-round layer when you need it.  Look at versatile scarves – extra warmth in winter, sun protection in summer – that can help dress up other items.

And embrace your outer wear – your coat or jacket – as an extra layer too.  A leather jacket, classic trench or stylish winter coat can provide extra style to your overall outfit as well as extra warmth when you need it.  With classic items like this, it can often be worth considering them an ‘investment’ piece, perhaps paying a little more than you’re used to for a timeless piece that will last you well.

Blouses – do you wear them?

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Men wear shirts, women wear blouses. Some women purposely wear shirts (which are usually too big on them), and this developed in the last few years into the fashion of a ‘shirt dress’ (although those are not “oversized”).

Blouses – who wears them?

I have lots of blouses in my wardrobe, but don’t tend to wear them these days. I have noticed that women prefer jumpers, teeshirts and lycra-type tops instead as everyday wear nowadays. If you see someone wearing a blouse, it is definitely noticeable and appears a more “upmarket” choice. Two decades ago I wore a blouse with my suit every day for my job. But, like suits, blouses seem to have lost their appeal, as daytime clothing has become more casual. However, are blouses making a comeback?

Where can you buy them?

When I searched online I found lots of choice from Boohoo to Next, Wallis and of course Hawes & Curtis. There are also denim blouses and some that look more casual. This blog is not about those, but the more dressy variety.

So when and why would you wear a blouse, and why not?

Why would you wear a blouse?

Points for wearing a blouse:

  • Blouses can be used to layer. If you are moving through various degrees of heat/cold, that could be a good tactic.
  • The collar or neck-tie of a blouse can fill some space if the jumper or cardigan gives a lot of space around the neck area.

Woman in blouse 

  • The material of a blouse can be softer against the skin than some jumpers, so there can be less irritation, around the neck or other more sensitive areas (eg under arms).
  • A bit like wearing a jacket, if you wear a jumper over a blouse, you have the option to take that off and show the blouse, only on this occasion you are increasing your formality rather than lessening it, as when you take a jacket off. However, it will depend on the material as to how creased it may then look.
  • Blouses can be tucked into a lower garment or left out. Leaving the shirt or blouse out can be a more forgiving look if it is looser around the middle. The current trend for women is to have a half and half option, which can cinch in the waist and allow coverage elsewhere (like on the backside).

  • Blouses are versatile – you can wear them open over a cami, and they act like a less formal “jacket”, and can add extra colour and modesty, or cover up the arms, which I know lots of women like to do as they age.
  • They can be made to look more casual, when sleeves are rolled up for example.

Woman in orange blouse

  • Blouses are an alternative to a dress, and of course blouses can be worn with skirts or trousers. Separates are more versatile.

So, why would you not wear a blouse?

A) If you are well endowed uptop, some blouses aren’t made for that, and buttons, zips or material can strain around that area.

B) They can require more delicate laundering (and of course ironing), whereas jumpers may be easier to look after.

C) Depending on the shape and style, they can be less flexible to wear than a jumper.

D) Sometimes the sleeves can be ill fitting, and ladies’ wrist sizes can vary. Luckily the fashion at the moment is to have smocking stitch at the cuff, which allows expansion if necessary.

E) Underwear may be seen if the blouse’s material is see-through. A few years ago that was the fashion, to have a contrasting colour bra that showed through the blouse.

I’ve noticed that blouses are now on trend with jeans and casual bottoms (like shorts). So, if you don’t need to dress so formally (perhaps if you are working from home and only your top half is on view through the computer for visual calls) is it time to rethink our wearing of blouses, if, like me, you haven’t worn yours for a while.  I’d love to hear your thoughts.

If you want advice about what colours and styles suit you, please get in touch!

Fiona

Your Colour & Style Consultant

07469 246722